I'm at it again... Turbocharged Tigershark 2.4L ! ! !

Discussion in 'Renegade Modified Tech' started by IDoMy0wnRacing, Aug 31, 2019.

  1. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2019
    Messages:
    222
    Location:
    Pioneer, California
    Keep in mind, I am NOT building this little Renegade Trailhawk into a Hot Rod.

    To be honest, the Renegade is about gutless. It gets around okay, but I live in the mountains and if you have too climb a hill for a minute, it takes some effort. Try passing somebody... if you don't plan it just right, it can be a bit scary.

    NOW, add an additional 400-ish pounds of weight? i.e. Front Bumper with Winch, Rear Bumper, Rock Sliders, Lift Kit, and bigger Tires.

    I want to add just a little bit extra. Give it the "poop" that it should have had from the factory, and make up for the added weight.

    Nothing extreme, I am talking less than 8 pounds of boost.

    As an example: 4 psi of boost will push the 180bhp to 180whp. Could you imagine having 180 usable Horse Power? weg I can.

    One of my dilemma's was tuning.

    A pre-programmed 'piggyback' computer module that would take the inputs from the Jeep's computer and ADD to those inputs enough to allow for boost by retarding the timing and adding fuel (and it does a few other little things).

    My other dilemma was, how do I keep the snorkel?

    I don't want to take away from something that has already been added (that and I had to cut a 3.5 inch hole in my fender).

    … I was able to take the EuroCompulsion V4 Air Induction Kit made for the 1.4L turbo Renegades and incorporate it into my build.

    And I have to admit, IT TURNED OUT NICE!!!

    This is work in progress, but it's coming along.

    … I'll keep you all updated.

    31 Engine Bay.jpg 28 Engine Bay, Center, Close.jpg 29 Engine Bay, Left, Close.jpg 30 Engine Bay, Right, Close, EuroCompulsion V4 Air Induction Kit;.jpg
     
    THawk16, Ian_1911, Sleepy and 3 others like this.
  2. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2019
    Messages:
    222
    Location:
    Pioneer, California
    UPDATE: 2.4l Tigershark Turbo.

    I had to reroute the radiator hoses and one of the engine oil cooler hoses. Relatively easy, I just had to cut the original hose clamps and rotate them up and out of the way and installed new hose clamps, relocate one of the “T” fittings that is in the upper radiator hose. The surge tank hose had to be modified. It is a plastic flex hose that doesn’t flex, so I had to cut the ends off to reuse them and replace the middle section with some silicone heater hose (solenoid hose has better heat resistance).

    On the upper charge pipe going into the throttle body, I had to have a Boss welded in for an additional injector and a Blow-Off Valve (BOV) (not my work, I don’t know how to TIG weld aluminum. But the guy did a really good job).

    Wired in the Piggyback Computer (PBC). It wires in to the wire harness coming out of the computer (lower connector) and intercepts the signal for the crank sensor, cam sensor, knock sensor, upper and lower o2 sensor, and the MAP sensor (I’m sure that I am forgetting something, or two). The PBC has two harness and a vacuum hose coming out of it. The Main Harness, for all of the sensor inputs and out puts, one harness going to the Additional Injector, and the vacuum hose that reads boost.

    How this works: The Piggyback Computer takes the reading from the sensors and makes no changes under normal driving conditions, it does this by monitoring vacuum. Once the PBC starts to see boost, it starts to make changes to the timing (retarding the timing) and starts adding additional fuel as needed; it also is taking reading from the o2 sensors, knock sensors and the cam sensor.

    The Piggyback Computer is programmed through software on a Laptop. There are two Maps that are adjustable. Map A is for Timing adjustments and Map B for fuel. Adjustments are made at 500 RPM increments and Vacuum & Boost in .5 pound (figurative) increments.

    By monitoring the software you can see where the PBC is getting its information to make adjustments. I installed an Air/Fuel ratio (AFR) and a Vacuum/Boost gauge so that I can monitor the AFR and Boost and make adjustment to the PBC.

    I got the turbo installed and ran the piping. Initially I used the 1 aluminum pipe at the Throttle Body because I needed a solid place for the Additional Injector and BOV. All of the other pipes I made from ABS (it is like black PVC) plastic 2.25 inch pipe. I used regular silicone inner cooler elbows and reducers to join the ABS together. And of course the oil feed and return lines had to be installed…

    My first test drive (running the PBC tuned (Renegade specific) as I received it): 25 mile round trip to the gas station. I made it all the way to the gas station without any issues. I am driving conservatively, not getting into too much boost, I want the vehicles computer and the PVC computer to learn to get along. It is mostly downhill form home to the station, I get stuck behind somebody driving slower then I want to, when it is clear, I press on the accelerator, get up in to the 4 pound boost range and the little Renegade went… My pass was effortless. Keep in mind, I didn’t floor it, I am driving conservatively, I want to get at least 100 miles on it before I try to see what it is capable of.

    I fill the Renegade with 91 octane, because that is the best we have available where I live. TWO reasons. I am running with boost, and the Trailhawk does not have room for an inner cooler. Add the fact that I have the AVID bumper and an 8000 pound Winch, I really don’t have room for an inner cooler. So to compensate for this, I run 7.35 pounds of boost, MAX, and premium gasoline. An inner cooler isn’t required until after 8 pounds of boost.

    On the way back from the gas station (mostly uphill) the jeep runs really good, with the exception of an occasional hick up, like the engine is losing crank signal, but only for a fraction of a second. I stop for a red light and the jeep dies but starts right back up. The light turns green and I give it some gas and I hear a pop, sound like one of my hoses came off of one of the charge pipes. The jeep runs, but no boost and I can hear the air rush. I pull over and sure enough, one of the pipes came out of the hoses. So I bust out my little tool box and I start to out the pipe back in the hose and realize that the ABS pipe had gotten soft by the engine bay heat and shrunk at the hose by the hose clamp. While I am reconnecting the pipe I can smell something like plastic melting, but I don’t see anything. I get the pipe reconnected and start the Renegade and have an engine light and a red screen stating Cooling Circuit Failure… the engine temperature is in the 200 range, but normal. So I head towards home, the engine starts to warm up and the A/C stopped working. I pull over, shut off the Renegade and pop the hood. The Turbocharger sits about a 1.5 inches from the cooling fan, and it gets hot! Melted the fan motor cover. The fan blades turn but it makes crunchy sounds. Call the wife to pick me up, bring the trailer.

    So I order a new fan, a turbo blanket, and exhaust wrap. I have seen videos where a turbo blanket will retain the heat and send it out the exhaust reducing the engine bay temperature by 50%, add exhaust wrap for the headers and down pipe for additional insurance. I also ordered aluminum pipe to replace the ABS pipe because ABS can’t withstand the heat in the engine bay. I also figured that aluminum pipe will help dissipate heat, especially since I am not using an inner cooler, any additional cooling would be a plus. I did learn that the ABS made for a good templet for the more expensive aluminum pipe.

    Now, I put the turbo in a blanket, wrapped the headers and down pipe, replaced the radiator fan, replaced the ABS with aluminum and relocated the Additional Injector and BOV to the rear of the engine (appearances), and reprogrammed the PBC to get rid of the hesitation and fine tune the timing and air fuel ratio.

    More test drives, and computer tuning and now I’m ready to take the big test drive.

    I loaded up the Renegade and headed off to work, 75 miles one way.

    It was a good drive. The computers are still learning, the engine temperatures are where they are supposed to be and the Renegade runs up and down the mountains like a regular car.

    Before the turbo, but after I installed the Front and Rear Bumpers, Winch, Rock Sliders and 4 inch lift (approximately 500 additional pounds (reminds me, I need to get this thing weighed)), the little (not so little as for a Renegades go) really had to work hard to climb some of the mountain roads that I travel on a daily basis. I am still driving conservative because I want to get more miles on it before I play too hard, but there is a big difference in the way this Jeep runs. It isn’t a hot rod my any means, but is now has the power to climb 6 % grade and pull, I can pass somebody with confidence. It now runs (in my mind’s eye) like it should have from the factory.

    I’m going to run this for a couple weeks and post another update, unless of course something goes terribly wrong, then I will post that as it happens.

    Side Notes: estimated gains. Our 2.4l Renegades are rated at 180 Brake Horse Power (BHP (at the crank)) which is approximately 139 Wheel Horse Power (WHP). 23% loss through the Powertrain (Automatic and AWD).

    7 pounds of boost is approximately 285 BHP = 216 WHP
     

    Attached Files:

    Newadventurer and THawk16 like this.
  3. THawk16

    THawk16 Member

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2019
    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    IL
    Awesome!!! Excellent write-up. What PBC did you use? Parts list? Cost? So many questions. Thanks for sharing!
     
  4. THawk16

    THawk16 Member

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2019
    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    IL
     
  5. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2019
    Messages:
    222
    Location:
    Pioneer, California
    I'll get back to you in more detail later (I work away from home).

    Turbo: TD05 BIG 16G Turbo Turbocharger for 90-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse.
    Header and Down Pipe: Custom built.
    PBC: FTC1-129E Fuel/Timing Calibrator by Split Second.
    Software: R4 Engine Management Software by Split Second. https://splitsec.com/

    Instead of a parts list for what I did, I'll come up with a "what I would do if I was going to do it again" list.

    Cost: a lot... in all honesty, I allowed myself to get ripped off to the tune of about $5600.00. Money wasted because I really wanted to do a turbocharged 2.4l Renegade. And the only way to get it done was by trial and error. I was hoping to get a lot more parts then I did when purchasing what I initially received.

    Right now my biggest challenge is tuning the PBC (new territory for me). I have it now where it runs really good, but it could be a bit better.
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2019
    THawk16 likes this.
  6. THawk16

    THawk16 Member

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2019
    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    IL
    The "what I would do" list would be great!

    Cost... Not too bad. Similar to the RRM kit that seems to have disappeared. My naturally aspirated list (CAI, bored throttle body, MPx header, Magnaflow exhaust) is around $2,500 for a "manufacturer claimed" 25 BHP gain. You have a much better $/HP ratio!!

    You seemed to have solved the biggest part of the puzzle... ECU tune. Saw one other attempt at a turbo Tigershark Renegade. Got it working at sea level, but couldn't tune for elevation. Congrats! And thanks for the list! My research starts now. I'm in the same boat - no TIG or tune experience.
     
  7. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2019
    Messages:
    222
    Location:
    Pioneer, California
    RRM is where I got the manifold, downpipe, turbo, inner cooler and PBC.

    Here is where I got ripped off:

    Turbo Charger, Manifold and Downpipe - $2299.00; (I was told "Renegade specific")

    Inner Cooler - $799.00; (I was told "Renegade specific")

    Piggyback Engine Control Unit - $1699.00; (I was told "Renegade specific") No software included.

    Turbo Oil Drain hose - $60.00; (Cut and assembled for the Renegade)

    Taxes and Shipping - $689.00

    Total = 5486.00

    The manifold and downpipe are specific to the Tigershark 2.4l, but I don't think it is worth $2000.00. I received it in a raw state, no coating, as advertised.

    Turbo, by part number on Amazon, $229.99 (free shipping)

    Inner cooler, by part number on Amazon, $94.00 (free shipping)

    FTC1-129E Fuel/Timing Calibrator $579.00 (tuning software included (it is Renegade/Cherokee specific, but can be ordered specifically from Split Second for $579.00))

    If I were to do it again.

    Buy the 2013-2017 Dart 2.4L Road Race Turbo System (M/T) from RRM. $4399.00

    It comes with everything that you need, for the most part.

    The inner cooler piping is going to be different, but most of it can be used (I didn’t use any of it).

    The Manifold and Down pipe is coated.

    It comes with the waste gate, blow off valve, additional injector, oil feed line, oil drain line, the fittings to make it work, hoses, clamps, etc. almost install and go.

    Put the PBC aside, you won’t use it (Dart specific), I would get the AEM 30-1911 6 Cylinder Fuel & Ignition Controller on Amazon $435.00 (free shipping). It can do a lot more and there is a lot more support out there for it.

    If you have a Trailhawk, the inner cooler will not fit; add a winch bumper, it really won’t fit.

    The good news is, up to 8 pounds of boost, an inner cooler isn’t required, beneficial, but not required.

    Amazon has almost everting else that you might need (prices are -ish)

    Turbo blanket, $130.00

    exhaust wrap, $30.00

    SS wire ties, $10.00

    Silicone unions, $110.00

    t-clamps, $50.00

    aluminum pipe, $55.00

    AEM Boost & A/F Ratio gauges, $500.00

    Cold air intake, $350.00 (not Amazon).

    Figure $200.00 on miscellaneous other things.

    You are looking at close to $7000.00 to turbo your Renegade.

    … is it worth it??? If I can get the tune right, it will be worth it to me.

    Would I do it again? It is a lot of work. I saved for three years to do all of this to my Renegade.

    It is one-of-a kind, and I am really happy with the way it turned out (and it still isn’t done (lights, I need Lights, … and a roof rack)), really happy the way it runs, I just need to work out a few bugs. And then there is the experience gained and the lessons learned (some of them hard).

    How I made it work. I bought a 2013-2017 Dart 2.4L Road Race Turbo System (M/T) from a guy on a Dart forum. He bought it new from RRM and didn’t install it, sold the car.

    If I didn’t have all the parts that came in that kit, I might not have been able to make it work.

    Add the parts listed above from Amazon and you can Turbo your Renegade.
     
    Newadventurer and THawk16 like this.
  8. persquank

    persquank Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2016
    Messages:
    201
    Media:
    22
    Albums:
    1
    Location:
    MKE
    My hat is off to you sir. This is tremendous. I have so many questions. Will you be using premium fuel from now on? The 1.4L turbo recommends premium as well. Has the transmission complained at all about the extra power? Any error codes from the ECU? Do you know about what RPM the boost kicks in?
     
  9. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2019
    Messages:
    222
    Location:
    Pioneer, California
    Thank you.

    I am using premium gas especially since I am not using an inner cooler.

    The ZF 9HP48TE is a nine-speed automatic transmission built by ZF Friedrichshafen is designed to handle 354 ft-lb of torque, I'm well under 300 ft-lb.

    This same exact transmission can be found in (only listed a few for an example):

    Acura TLX, 290 hp, 3.5L V6
    Chrysler Pacifica, 295 hp, 3.6L V6
    Honda Odyssey, 280 hp, 3.5L V6
    Honda Avancier: 268 hp, 2.0L VTEC Turbo I4
    Range Rover Evoque, 237 hp, 2.0L Turbo
    Land Rover Discovery Sport. Fords EcoBoost 240 hp, 2.0 I4

    The only difference is in their map/tune.

    RPM and boost. With the cruise control on, running at 60 mph at 1800 rpm, when I start to climb a grade, boost will come up to maintain 60 mph. It is kind of nice not to lose 5 mph and drop three or four gears to maintain 60 mph going up a hill.

    The factory ECU doesn’t see boost. The piggyback computer is hooked up between the sensors and the ECM and makes adjustment to the ECM’s output for engine to perform under boost.

    No codes, not yet anyways… lol
     
  10. persquank

    persquank Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2016
    Messages:
    201
    Media:
    22
    Albums:
    1
    Location:
    MKE
    No inter cooler? Maybe you can use the Valkyrie hood vents to help get some heat out from under to hood.
     
    IDoMy0wnRacing likes this.
  11. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2019
    Messages:
    222
    Location:
    Pioneer, California
    I did, They came in yesterday. I will install them on Monday :)
    … I do want to get the heat out of there.
    I think that I am going to double wrap the headers also.

    Thanks
     
    THawk16 likes this.
  12. THawk16

    THawk16 Member

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2019
    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    IL
    Valkyrie's should help get some heat out. It would be nice to louver the skid plate... more air out plus easier dropped tool recovery :).

    I'm looking at opening up the grill inserts. Lower 1/4 is open - in line with the top of the radiator. I'll pull the grill assembly to see if there is a logical path to get more cool air into the engine bay. I've got some 3x3 per inch HD steel woven wire mesh. Cut the fake mesh out of the inserts. Install a rectangular panel of mesh on the back side of the grill assembly. Dirty Acres has perf aluminum panel kits ($145) with graphic options. Less open area than my woven wire mesh.

    Been trying to get my head around the turbo mods all weekend. The AEM 30-1911 Fuel & Ignition Controller is not currently available on Amazon. Also not listed on AEM's site. Would like to get the PBC, A/F and Boost gauges figured out before attacking the "plumbing". Don't know if it would give some pre-turbo tune options. Thanks again for your"what I would do" list Ed!!
     
    IDoMy0wnRacing likes this.
  13. THawk16

    THawk16 Member

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2019
    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    IL
    AEM Boost & A/F Ratio gauges, $500.00

    Where did you mount your gauges? Is there an A pillar pod kit available?
     
  14. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2019
    Messages:
    222
    Location:
    Pioneer, California
    Summit Racing has the AEM for the same price Amazon had it listed for.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-1911

    I was looking at opening up the grill inserts also. It would be possible to make a diverter to get some additional air, about half an inserts worth. I made the diverter, I just haven’t cut out the inserts.

    I was also thinking about adding a few holes in the grill just below the inserts, and maybe a few in the bumper and the skid plate below the bumper. I just don’t want to make it unsightly. lol

    I do get a bit warm (hot) climbing a long grade. I made a timing adjustment; I'll know if I made any improvements on my way home this afternoon...
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2019
    THawk16 likes this.
  15. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2019
    Messages:
    222
    Location:
    Pioneer, California
    Universal 'A' Pillar pod. I had to do some trimming, and it isn't as pretty as I would like. I am still looking for something that fit nicer on the 'A' Pillar.
     
    THawk16 likes this.
  16. THawk16

    THawk16 Member

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2019
    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    IL
    AEM has (3) X-Series OBD II gauges and controller. 30-0334 - X-Series Wideband UEGO AFR Sensor Controller Gauge with OBDII and Bosch 4.9LSU O2 sensor ($240), 30-0306 - X-Series Boost Pressure Gauge -30inHg~35psi ($190), and 30-0311 - X-Series OBDII Gauge ($160).

    Would any of these work with the AEM 30-1911 FIC set up? I like them from the OBD II (plug and play) perspective. I think they can be daisy chained.
     
  17. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2019
    Messages:
    222
    Location:
    Pioneer, California
    I am not sure how those work from a plug-n-play point of view. I am sure that they will require you to do some kind of wiring to use the data log feature.

    I am using the AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge ($160), and the AEM (30-4406) -30-35 PSI Boost Gauge (155) which have the capabilities for data logging. I am not using the data log features.

    https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-...EM+30-4110&qid=1568578847&s=automotive&sr=1-4

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DX7KMY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I am not reading from the OBD2 connector. My laptop plugs into fuel/timing control unit via USB/Serial cable. I am making/getting my fuel and timing information from there.
     
    THawk16 likes this.
  18. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2019
    Messages:
    222
    Location:
    Pioneer, California
    I made an observation today. The last few miles heading home is all up hill.
    I didn't realize how hot turbochargers got.
    The two pictures were taken at night. Picture 1 with a flash and picture 2 without flash.
    The hot side of the turbo is right at 900 degrees Fahrenheit (°F)(My research is showing me that turbines in most current production turbochargers are suitable for continuous operation at an exhaust gas inlet temperature of 1750°F (950°C)).
    For the most part, anything under 1600 °F (900 °C) is normal.
    But it sure looks hot... lol

    Just thought I'd share.
     

    Attached Files:

    THawk16 likes this.
  19. THawk16

    THawk16 Member

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2019
    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    IL
    That outta get you a good "Ruth Christ" sear on you steaks by the time you get home!:D
     
    IDoMy0wnRacing likes this.
  20. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2019
    Messages:
    222
    Location:
    Pioneer, California
    Laughing to myself, I just realized that the computer that I am using to tune my Renegade was made for the Renegade.
    Does anybody else see the resemblance?
     

    Attached Files:

    indovinavi and THawk16 like this.

Share This Page