Since there have been a few different issues with the lift I'd like to start a new thread to preclude sifting through 7+ pages on the lift thread. Rear Control Arm Bracket Weld Problem TH Skid Plate Trim Sway Bar Links Coming Loose Alignment Issues
So it appears the original rear control arm bracket was one with incomplete weld and was replaced before installing. I have a Trailhawk but I am not aware of the other problems listed
i'll email a copy of Daystars recall letter to anyone that wants to leave an email address n a reply. it's a pdf and i cant load it on here directly.
I emailed Daystar pics of my welds and they called me back and gave me the thumbs up. tech@daystarweb.com Very glad it was that easy!
I had the same problems with swaybars loosening on trails. Though I figured I'd probably just pull the sway bar connects on my next run.
+2 on the sway bar link coming loose, and it gave me a slight scare (I must have screwed something up on the install, I thought). All of a sudden the slightest bump would result in a pop-crack-thump, not one after the other but all at once and you could feel it (the thump) thru the floor board. Stopped immediately and started redoing all the steps for the lift install. The one truck that passed me while doing this must have been pretty curious why I was pulling my windshield wipers off. I was very relieved when I got to the passenger side bottom sway bar nut and it turned a 1/4 rotation. Put the wipers back on and I was good for almost 2 hours before it had to be tightened again (this time I left the wipers in place . Lock washers sound like a good idea, I'm also gonna add some lock tight (which will also be added to my tool kit). As far as the control arm bracket, I bought my lift kit in the beginning of March, control arm brackets had full welds. Thawk's pics tell it all. I don't think this will be an issue going forward. Skid plates: I ran into 3 issues. Two of which are noted in Wayoflife's writeup. The driver side gas tank plate is a simple cut, no need to pull the plate (although if the only tool you have is a hack saw then you'll probably want to pull it to do the work). The drive shaft bearing skid plate I spent a little more time on. I really wanted the same gap between the plate and the bearing housing as before the mod. I found some coupling nuts at my local hardware store (8mm coarse and about an inch long). I cut the mounting studs down a little and popped the 1/4" spacers off the plate and bolted it up. Slightly more space between the plate and bearing without losing too much clearance. The one that caught me off guard was the passenger side gas tank plate. It was catching the driveshaft entering the differential and not letting the diff drop enough for the spacers. Dropping the plate gave me the clearance to install the crossmember spacers (no pry bar needed). I found an oversized nut to use as a spacer for the plate. Alignment: ran into the same issues with the rear camber. My research has me confused as to weather the camber can be fixed or not. I will be contacting Daystar about this. Either way I'm not that concerned, a couple extra tire rotations a year isn't that big a deal. This post ended up longer than I expected, sorry bout that, but I do have one anecdote(?) to share and this seems like the right place for it. While hunting down the sway bar link issue I took a little break, being I was in the desert, the only shade was under the Jeep. While laying under there I noticed a spec of oil on the front skid plate. I checked the dipstick and I was a quart low (not good). I put a pause on hunting for 'pop-crack-thump' sound and pulled the front skid plate off to inspect further. Turns out the oil filter was loose. I had put a quart in a few months ago but the manual said losing some oil during the engine burn in was normal, so I didn't pay much attention to it at the time. Luckily I had a quart in the trunk. - Don't forget to check your oil. Two problems on the trail, two quick and easy solutions. Lets hope all BU breakdowns are that easy to fix.
I had the sway bar come loose on mine too. I'm not in a position to be working on it myself . I took it to the guys that put the kit in and they found it right away and tightened it at no charge. This is going to be a huge problem if it's a recurring issue.
Are there any Daystar lift issues? I don't think there are any issues any more. The only real issue was the spot welds on the rear control bracket. Daystar was quick to remedy that mistake. I'm posting this because I'm seeing people ask about Daystar lift issues. Are there any? I don't know of any. If anybody has run into an issue, please post. The only issue I can see people running into is the rear wheel alignment. I even had to contact Daystar about it (thanks Daystar for the info). This is a new vehicle, the mechanics trying to align your jeep have never seen this vehicle before. It's understandable that they don't know the adjustment points. So, make sure to tell the mechanic (not the sales person, the Mechanic) that both trailing arms are adjustable. The rear trailing arm is obvious, it's a camber bolt. The mechanics see this and take a quick look at the forward trailing arm and say 'there's only one adjustment point and it's maxed out'. Wrong! The forward trailing arm is a slide, the large washer covers the fact. At a quick look it's easy to miss. Tell the mechanic that both trailing arms are adjustable and (if the mechanic is worth his/hers paycheck) you will have no problems. I trying to make my posts shorter, but I don't know how
That's good advice about the alignment. Also the only issue I've had with my lift was quickly fixed by Daystar less than 24 hours.
Any solution for the sway bar link loosening? Locknuts or Loctite working for people? I hope to have my lift installed in the next week or two, and would like to know.
Where are the nuts on the sway bar link that are coming loose, I went over where I disconnect it for the trail, but I'm getting the same noise and steering is fine up to a point then it seems to pull turning left.
I'm surprised that lock washers, or poly locknuts would come loose. Is there a lot of excess vibration?
What section of the forward trailing arm is the "slide"? I can't find the area in question,any pictures of that area?I would like to know so I can point out exactly the adjustment point to the mechanic if needed.
When Daystar originally issued the recall in March I immediately got in contact with them and sent them pictures of all my welds. I was told they were fine and not included in the recall. Very much NOT FINE!!! So far Daystar has been helpful about getting this resolved, but I know I am the second person who was told that their welds were fine only to have a bracket break later. Its not like I'm a hardcore wheeler either, I get on some bumpy stuff, but nothing too extreme. I was coming around this corner when the bracket broke, as you can see it wasn't due to a sudden jolt or anything.
That bracket is crap, I don't know why Day star didn't use the original brackets with spacers like G-force did as seen in this pic. I can't imagine going down a mountain pass on a freeway at 75 mph and having that bracket break. Your lucky it broke where it did!
That Daystar bracket is an ongoing serious safety issue, it needs to be recalled before someone gets seriously hurt or even worse.
