Discussion in 'Renegade Modified Tech' started by ArcticRenny, Aug 14, 2019.
Thanks! The M/T's should get me around this winter a little better than my old Porsche Boxter.
Looks good. I’m Mike by the way from Raceline Wheels.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Mike! Still undecided on painting the center caps.
Thanks Ed! Eagerly watching your 2.4l turbo thread. Might start a naturally aspirated one.
Good job btw.
Did you get instructions on how to install this or have any recommendation when to? I was just about to button everything up on the rear and then saw these lying on the ground next to my bumper parts. Totally forgot about them. The only thing I have left on the rear is to reattach the sway bar. Do you think I can disconnect the OEM one and install the Avid ones without having to undo anything?
Take off the original ones, one at a time. Measure it next to the new one. Unscrew the ends evenly until it is about the same length as the original and install.
Once you have them both installed, place the vehicle on the ground and look at the rear wheels, you might have to lengthen the new rods so that the wheels are aiming straight. Just get it close and snug up the jam nuts. The alignment shop will make it right.
You might have to drop the skid plates for better access to the control arm bolts by the differential. Other than that, no other disassembly required. Mine needed to be adjusted longer than the factory arms to correct a significant toe in on the rear wheels. Alignment shop took care of it. All specs in the green!
same for me above 2 posts. you’ll notice right away your rear end needs em!
the rubber around the hole is not allowing me to get the side in near the differential. Any advice good to widen that temporarily to get that end in? I beat it with a rubber mallet trying to get in but won't get close enough to holes to grab with screw driver.
Put one end of the original one in the mount and use it to widen the mount.
Mine were super tight. Spray some lube and Michael Jackson it (Beat It).
mine weren’t too difficult to put in.. I remember starting at your troubled end first and then at the hub. I used the floor jack to raise the tire up to the sweet spot and the bolt went right in. if any help was needed the trusty rubber mallet was near, just don’t remember it having an issue. you can always extend the length of the arm to get it in.. just try to keep the extension equal on each side.
Rubber mallet and lube. Just needed a little help to get in there. Great advice!
New to the site and new to the renegade and offroading and such. Did the rear subframe, carrier bearing, exhaust spacer delete come with the avid 2" lift kit or thats something you knew to do for clearance purposes? Nice rig btw I have a white TH also. So this is good reference for me and it looks awesome!
ya they come with the economy 2” & 2.5” kits. the term “delete” means I skipped the three parts of the install [rear subframe 4x big round 2” pucks, carrier bearing & exhaust/muffler 1” puck spacers] I have had ZERO adverse issues other than the results from oversized tires.. I don’t know why more don’t skip this part to gain extra ground clearance. It’s night & day difference
Sorry for my ignorance, but if you skip those steps that adds the 2" puck and 1" puck for height on subframe and exhaust and carrier bearing. Doesn't that take away height or take away from having the jeep leveled?
No, because the Renegade has independent suspension, as long as you lift at the struts, you will raise the vehicle.
Not adding the 'pucks' will actually give you better ground clearance in the center of the Renegade, but it does come at the expense of more drivetrain angle at the half-shafts.
So you will be wearing out the transmission and half shafts a lot sooner?Is there a way to fix the angle of the half shafts without mounting the pucks, how long have you had this setup and what issues have you encountered so far by not installing the added pucks? Sorry for all the questions.
Separate names with a comma.