1.4 spark plugs

Discussion in 'Renegade Stock Tech' started by Trianddan, Nov 23, 2019.

  1. Trianddan

    Trianddan New Member

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    Long story short dealer wants $30 a plug. Mopar part number is Sp070507ac and have cross referenced it to NGK 93618. Has anyone ever used the NGK? What's everyone else running? I dont want to void my warranty and do engine damage.

    Anyone know what the torque for the spark plugs are?
     
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  2. zuke

    zuke Active Member

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    The NGK's meet OEM spec and your warranty can't be voided for installing them if they are put in properly. I've run NGK's in a lot of my vehicles, But not in my Renegade (Haven't changed plugs in it), When I do, I will be using NGKs.

    The torque is very light, you might have trouble finding a torque wrench that will read low enough, it's 10~15ftlb.
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2019
  3. Trianddan

    Trianddan New Member

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    Thank you
     
  4. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Well-Known Member

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    Love NGK, I have been using NGK's in ALL of my Hot Rods.

    Currently running NGK's in my Trailhawk w/ 2.4L.

    Can't go wrong with NGK.

    +1 with @zuke. Light torque. I use a little anti-seize on the threads only (don't get any on the electrode), torque to 14ft-lb; that is like 1/16 of a turn after the spark plug gasket touches the head.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2019
  5. Trianddan

    Trianddan New Member

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    Found the torque, 12-14 ft lbs (144-168 in lbs) not exceeding 15 ft lbs.

    FYI, Applying anti seize changes the torque value, wet torque vs dry torque.

    https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

    5 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT SPARK PLUGS
    1. Anti-seize

    NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver- or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.

    2. Corona stain

    Corona stain is observed as a light brown or tan discoloration above the hex (located on the ceramic body of the spark plug). Corona stain is created by oil or dirt particles surrounding the spark plug. Spark plugs create a high amount of static electricity as they fire, attracting these particles to the exposed ceramic between the plug boot and the hex. Corona stain is completely normal and should not be mistaken for exhaust gas blow-by or broken seals inside the spark plug.

    3. Gapping fine-wire spark plugs

    In the late 1980s, when fine-wire spark plugs first appeared, installers used incorrect gap tools and procedures resulting in bent or broken-off firing electrodes. As a result, many people assumed that one cannot adjust the gap on a precious metal plug. While most NGK spark plugs are pre-gapped, there are instances where the gap requires modification. NGK recommends a wire-style or feeler gage gap tool, which can adjust the gap without prying against the center electrode. NGK also recommends adjusting the gap no more than +/- 0.008” from the preset gap.

    4. Torque

    Torque is critical in the plug’s ability to dissipate heat and perform properly. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommended torque specification. An under-torqued spark plug can lead to excessive vibration and improper heat dissipation, causing spark plug and/or engine damage. An over-torqued spark plug may cause thread damage or breakage, or compromise internal seals within the spark plug, leading to improper heat dissipation or exhaust gas blow-by.

    5.“Copper spark plugs”

    “Copper spark plugs” is a term mistakenly used for a standard material spark plug. A standard material spark plug traditionally uses a nickel-alloy outer material fused to a copper core. Almost all spark plugs use a copper core center to conduct the electricity, jump the gap, and promote heat dissipation. However, as an outer electrode material, copper would not be a good choice, as it is soft and has a low melting point (resulting in a plug that would last minutes, not miles). Nearly all NGK spark plugs, including precious metals iridium and platinum, have a copper core. When one talks in terms of nickel alloys, platinum and iridium, one is referring to its durability, or how long a spark plug will last before it needs to be replaced. However, when one talks about copper, he or she is referring to its ability to conduct electricity that is needed to fire across the gap and ignite the air-fuel mixture.
     
  6. Dgr401

    Dgr401 Well-Known Member

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    Would the torque of 14ft-lb be for the 2.4L also?
     
  7. zuke

    zuke Active Member

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    The Plugs in the 1.4 are a 12mm threads, while the ones in a 2.4l are 14mm.

    You'll find any number of different sites giving different torque ratings for the thread sizes, generally saying that a 14mm requires more torque then a 12mm, and lots of overlap in the torque ranges on them, so really it's best if you can find the Manufacturers spec for the particular plug...

    NGK Says for the 93618 (1.4l);

    Torque Specs: Cast Iron: 10.8-18 lb. ft.
    Aluminum: 10.8-14.5 lb. ft.

    And for the 4469 (2.4l);

    Torque Specs: Cast Iron: 18-25.3 lb. ft.
    Aluminum: 18-21.6 lb. ft.

    Both the engines in question use aluminum heads, and as you can see the torque range is actually pretty wide (20%) for how light the range is.

    You can also see that the spec that Triandan found is different to, and you can find a lot of sources on the internet that will say to forget torque and go an 1/8th or 1/4th turn after you feel the metal ring on the bottom of the plug thread bottom out.

    The take away to me is that the torque of the plug isn't quite as critical as some here are thinking.

    Now I don't want to make light of those concerns, it is much better to be to precise than to go too light and have the plugs fall out, or too tight and have them seize into the threads, and if there is any lack of confidence at all, the specs should be adhered to, But I'd almost guarantee that plugs are one of those things that an experienced mechanic probably doesn't worry about torque on, and just goes by the 'feel' he's been using for years.
     
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  8. Trianddan

    Trianddan New Member

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    Torque numbers I supplied was from the FCA technical procedure.

    2.4l is 20 ft lbs.
     
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  9. Dgr401

    Dgr401 Well-Known Member

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    Thank you both for the replies.
     
  10. zuke

    zuke Active Member

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    Probably why the numbers are a lot more precise than the ones NGK provides, but the FCA technical procedure expects the Mopar Plugs..

    Since the FCA spec falls within the NGK specs though, might as well use the FCA Numbers!
     
  11. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Well-Known Member

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    I torque to 14 ft-lb.
    NGK has instruction on the box that read tighten 1/16 of a turn after gasket touches.
    On average, that tested out to be 14 to 17 ft-lb.
     
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  12. Dgr401

    Dgr401 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the reply, I am planning on using NGK.
     

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