Daystar vs Teraflex 1.5 lift

Discussion in 'Renegade Chat' started by Eoseitz, Aug 22, 2019.

  1. Eoseitz

    Eoseitz Active Member

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    I can’t seem to get the control arm that goes side to side to fit. I removed the one closest to the front. It’s like the rubber is a bit too thick. There is about an 1/8 gap between the metal and the grommet. Can these be pressed in further?
     

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  2. Eoseitz

    Eoseitz Active Member

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    Ok. Next issue. I got the control arm in with some “gentle” persuasion and some grease. Now how do I get the rear strut spacer in? I can’t get it to drop low enough. Do I need to take the sway bar link off?
     
  3. Eoseitz

    Eoseitz Active Member

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    Disconnecting the say bar link did it. Almost done with the back right side now.

    Does the 2 inch come with brake line mount spacers? It doesn’t mention them in the instructions. The brake line and wheel sensor wire are really tight. I don’t think I can reattach them with the rubber bushing.

    There’s the 4 big spacers for the diff. Then there’s 4 smaller spacers that are maybe 2 inches tall and 2 spacers that are about 1 inch tall.
     
  4. indovinavi

    indovinavi Active Member

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    I am not certain, I have the avid 2.5. the brake line spacers were the 1” pucks. try reattaching them with the weight on the wheels?

    save the 2 1” spacers for the front brakes (unless you got 4 of them and were mentioning the remaining 1” spacers for kit-seems odd they’d only send you brake spacers for front only..)
    my renegade has avid 2.5 and eibach lifting springs (4” total) -skipped the rear subframe, carrier bearing & exhaust lowering spacers. no issues as of yet and about 2000 miles on it, alignment in the green for me and no need for the cam bolts either. my two cents! wishing you good luck on the front end! ;)
     
  5. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Well-Known Member

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    The only problem without doing the rear subframe drop (puck spacers) is:
    When the rear wheel is at full extension (like if you are off road and you dip into a rut and 1 of the rear wheels comes off of the ground), the axle angle is extreme.
    With normal driving (no subframe drop) the rear axle angle is about the same angle as ours that have done the subframe drop is at full extension.

    @indovinavi 100% no disrespect intended (for not using your rear subframe spacers), I promise...
    … just something to think about.
     
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  6. indovinavi

    indovinavi Active Member

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    Yea I know- there are fewer on my end of the install than the mass who spent the additional time lowering all of the undercarriage staying on the safe side. Frankly, you’ll have to agree that for a minimal 1-2” of lift is not going to make that big of a difference in these applications.. In my opinion, it is similar to those who choose to install springs only. If it were so detrimental, they’d be lowering the front sub-suspension and they arent. Even at our height the angles all look okay when it’s fully extended and jacked up. This all said, given my tire choice, there’s no way they’re going to let me get that far anyways ;)
     
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  7. Eoseitz

    Eoseitz Active Member

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    Starting to regret taking this project on. . Any idea how to get the front rear facing control arm into the new bracket? It seems to be half and inch off.
     
  8. Eoseitz

    Eoseitz Active Member

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    Got the back done finally. A ratchet strap helped to aligned the bolt holes for the control arm.

    Next issue. I’m on the front now. I took the bolt off the windshield wiper and it won’t come off. Any suggestions?
     
  9. indovinavi

    indovinavi Active Member

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    watch this video yet? very helpful for me during my install. you’ll have to wiggle it back and forth (side to side actually) it’s a mother f! but it will come loose.

     
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  10. Eoseitz

    Eoseitz Active Member

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    Yep. It kind of helped. I’ve got the spacer one the front strut now and I’m trying to put it back in. The knuckle is about 1-1.5 inches too low. Do I have to compress the springs to get it in?
     
  11. indovinavi

    indovinavi Active Member

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    probably- you’re going to have to pull just about every trick in the book I’m afraid ;) use a jack, your straps, some blocks, screwdrivers etc
    in this case, I tied the spring assembly to the engine side of the jeep, used a floor jack from below to jack it up and was able to slide it in that way. took many many hours. oh, I also disconnected the steering to allow more flexibility too. like I said- try everything. you’ll get it. we’re all proof it works!

    [edit] at the time of my install, I didn’t have the right spring compressors to use. having that would have probably worked it all out much easier.
     
  12. Eoseitz

    Eoseitz Active Member

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    Finally got everything installed. The passenger strut lives up to its reputation. It is a bear to install. I still have to install one bolt into the top of the strut spacer (bolt connecting to the vehicle). The avid bolt stripped out. No big deal. I’ll run to the store and get one.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2019
  13. Eoseitz

    Eoseitz Active Member

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    What's everyone think about putting the subframe spacers in? I just want a few opinions. The angles didn't look bad with them not in. That was even with the rear end completely off the ground on both sides. I'm thinking about taking them off for the extra ground clearance.
     
  14. indovinavi

    indovinavi Active Member

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    you’re going to receive a lot more pros vs cons on the subject.. but you got exactly why I skipped it- plus I was just about tapped on the install anyways.. it was a lot tougher for me with a 3 year old boy running around me and the jeep on stands lol
    2 inches of ground clearance is a lot- well enough to notice, plus having to lower the exhaust and drivetrain as a result of it. Being that mine’s a trailhawk it has the skidplates along the bottom and the plate covering the drivetrain would not fit after the spacers were installed. no thanks ;) I’ll take the risk and get the clearance I was after in the first place. :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2019
  15. Eoseitz

    Eoseitz Active Member

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    For anyone else that runs into the issue I had with the front passenger strut, here’s a few tips.

    Make sure to trim the strut enough. If you don’t trim enough off, it will catch the axel. I actually didn’t have to compress the shocks or anything. Let the axel hang to almost full droop. Turn the wheel all the way to the left. With the strut loose from the top, align the strut to the knuckle. Push the bottom of the strut toward the knuckle and have someone slowly turn the wheel back toward center. After a couple tries it’ll go in. The holes in the knuckle and strut won’t line up. Bolt the strut in loosely at the top. Get a tapered punch and have someone wiggle the strut while pushing up. You’ll have to man handle it. When the bottom bolt hole starts to line up, put the punch in it. Tap the punch in with a hammer to align the hole. Put the bolt in the top hole. Then remove the punch and put the bolt in the bottom.
     
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  16. Eoseitz

    Eoseitz Active Member

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    The results of my alignment. They said they’re all in the green. Not sure how to read this. Drives fine.
     

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  17. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Well-Known Member

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    Your left camber is on the line, and that is why it is shows red.
    This could be corrected with caster adjusting bolts (the bolts that secure the strut to the spindle (only 1 required per strut)).
    They look like this: https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-45K1...60------------&vehicleName=2016+Jeep+Renegade

    Usually when they look at the results and say that it is in the "green", they are referring to the Caster and Toe.
     
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  18. indovinavi

    indovinavi Active Member

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    @Eoseitz -I’d hit up AVID for them, they sent me some camber bolts in my kit.. worth a shot for you?
     
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  19. Eoseitz

    Eoseitz Active Member

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    I think my lift kit actually came with those bolts. I thought they were replacement bolts for the back replacement control arm (they had a locking style bot). I just used the stock hardware on those. I'll double check when I get home. If I have them, I wonder if NTB will charge me to re-align the front tire? Maybe this is a good time to buy the new tires. :) If they tell me no, I'll go elsewhere.
     
  20. Eoseitz

    Eoseitz Active Member

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    Took the Jeep to get the new tires installed today. I got quite the surprise. The guys said the front alignment looked good and the back hadn’t even been touched. I paid ntb almost $100 to do an alignment and these were the initial alignment results ntb gave me. It’s only been 3 weeks. No way they got out of alignment already. Obviously the took my money, didn’t do the work and gave me a fake print out.
     

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