Hey dude I bought my much loved 19’ sport 4x4 here in FL. I bought the eibach springs but not installed. Just wanted a tad more lift for a size bigger tire. Do you think just doing this spring swap will give me issues with dealer down the road with warranty ?
I think that it is dependent on the dealership. If you let (pay) them do the install, they are more likely to honor any warranty down the road.
That is a lot more trimming than I realized and I can totally see that it alleviated the rubbing. Thanks.
Actually, it only measured out to 3 ¼ inch lift. If it was a non-Trailhawk model, it would probably would have been a full 4 inches.
Hey pedals I had the daystar 1.5lift kit installed(bought jeep used didn't know it was on) took to a shop to have b8 5100s and eibach lift coils installed. I also bought avids 1.5 spacer lift. The shop installed the strut coil combo and removed the daystar spacers not the full kit. So I still have the avid lift 1.5, do you think my trailhawk with it already having the subframe being dropped for a 1.5 lift could handle and align the spacer lift? The strut is a 1inch lift the coils are 1inch lift. Can I stack one more inch without needing more of a drop for the subframe?
If you are already running the 5100 with 1 inch lift, and the eibach springs with 1 inch, you might be pushing the limit. BUT!!! With the rear Daystar lift still in place, how level is the Renegade sitting? If you add the spacers to the front, will the front sit higher than the rear, or will it level it out? If the back is sitting higher than the front, I would say go ahead and add the spacers. It is still less than the ATP 4.0 lift, and I was able to get mine to align. I am kind of curious why they would remove the spacers from the front, but not the rear??? I do know that it isn't easy to install the 5100 at +1 inch with +1 inch spring, and throw a +1.5 inch spacer on top of all that (3.5 inches)... but it can be done. **(reference ATP 4.0)
Thanks for the input, the rear end doesnt have the spacers. The only parts it has is the subframe spacers that lower it from the body. No actual strut spacers are on it. Its sitting like how the stock trailhawk is where the back end is just a tad higher than the front. My two main concerns are the subframe spacers, will I need to get larger spacers? Along with alignments.
I think that you will be fine with what you have. The subframe spacers are only there to help reduce the rear half shaft angle. I have read where some have installed a 2.5 inch lift without lowering the rear subframe just so that they can maximize ground clearance.
I am looking for advice on trimming the struts and installing the avid 2" w/ the eibachs. Can't seem to get the strut into place. I've only tried the driver side, but I can get the top loosely threaded but when I try to align the bottom of the strut to the wheel, it can pass over the CV to get into place.
Hmmm, the left side is the hardest. So, it will get easier as you go. I don’t know where you are in the disassembly / reassembly process. You lifted the Jeep and placed the jack under the frame, not on the sub-frame. Remove the brake caliper, don’t disconnect the brake line, disconnect the speed sensor. Remove the sway bar link. Remove the two bolts from the lower strut / steering knuckle. Remove the three bolts on top of the strut and remove the strut. · Keep in mind the strut will have to go in the same way it came out. You did all that because you are trying to reinstall… just checking the blocks. trimming the back side of the flange on the bottom of the strut. If you don’t have a cut-off wheel, a hack saw will work. You are only removing the inside edge, closest to the half-shaft. Insert the strut into the strut tower and loosely install the bolts loosely in the top strut mount (it must go in the same direction that it came out). · Remember the top spacer is side specific. The driver’s side is the LEFT side of the vehicle. With a long screwdriver or prybar, hooking the lower control arm and under the strut slide the strut into place, or pry down on the lower control arm and slide the strut into place. If the strut lower mounts don’t line up the strut can be turned in the right position. Start anything into the lower strut mount hole just to get it started (small Phillips or punch). Pry and wiggle to get a bolt in place, tighten all bolts. IT IS A Tight fit; you will get it. lol now you get to do it on the right side of the Jeep.
how much of the inside edge did you trim? I trimmed the whole lip part but no further. I feel like with the spinach and spacer that at full extension I need to trim a notch out to get more clearance. I'm going to try the passenger side and see if I have better results before doing more trimming. Now that I think about it, will compressing the spring even do anything? It's not like I'm shortening the overall length of the strut.
If you can get the spring compressor in there, it will help a bunch. BUT, you will need to compress the strut also.
See attached pic for how much I trimmed off strut lip. I tried the passenger side but still couldn't get it into place, even with spring compressors on there. Mind you I only could get them to fit on the bottom 3 rows so I didn't get that much compression. I'm thinking of trying this hydraulic bottle jack trick I saw someone else post on here, using the sway bar hole on the strut. If that doesn't work, I'm either going to trim more on the bottom of strut, but Idk if that weld could take that or I'm taking the spacer off, installing without it and taking to a shop to get the avid spacer lift installed.
I wouldn't trim any more off of the strut. I saw the bottle jack method posted. be careful. I can't imagine why it is being so difficult for you. Keep at it, you will win.
So the bottle jack method didn't work. It definitely will compress the springs and move the strut up but it fixes it in position so you can't work with it to get the knuckle and it to align. I was wondering what you meant by this step you had in your instructions earlier. Maybe I'm trying to get it in position the wrong way, idk. I can't get the strut to sit over the CV because lack of clearance at full extension. Maybe there is a safer way than the bottle jack method to get the strut in the right position and I'm not doing that. Otherwise I'm going to go back to the spring compressors and ratchet them since I won't have the space in there for my impact driver. If that doesn't work, I'm going without the spacers and I'll take it into a shop.
Can you take a couple pics of the area that you are working in? I want to see what you have going on. Stock springs, stock struts, spacer only.... you shouldn't be having that much of a hard time. Maybe I can see something that I can help you with. you know, a second set of eyes.