Here is my Jeep Renegade Desert Hawk. It has a little under 3,000 miles on it. Has my sky removable roof panels with retractable sun roof. Cold weather package with heated seats, heated steering wheel, and remote start. 6.5" Uconnect, navigation, and Beats audio (upgraded all audio but later on that). Has safety package with lane detection. Starting from front I installed a license plate bull bar. On top of that I mounted two 4" LED cubes angled slightly outward. In between those I put an eight inch light bar. Upgraded headlights, DRL's, and fog lights to 6,000k LED bulbs. None of the bulbs hyperflash or throw codes. However the DRL's stay dimly lit for awhile after turning off vehicle. Here you can see all the LED's lit up and matching. I custom made brackets to mount 4" LED cubes to the hood by the A pillar. I wanted a sleeker look and didn't like any of the prefab mounts and how far the stick the lights up and away from the vehicle. These lights are also angled outward and the light output from these pickup where the bull bar lights stop. Makes for 180 degrees of coverage from the drivers window to the passengers. A night view in the snow of the lights on. As you can see I also installed a 40" LED with custom mounts across the front roof of the jeep. Going down the passenger side I installed black ABS plastic door handle covers and gas hatch cover. A Wal-Mart brand roof rack and crossovers. Made a tire mount to relocate spare to roof rack (to make room for amps, capacitor, crossover, and wiring). Vinyl tire cover to protect spare. Barely noticeable is a 42" Bulldog Farm jack from Tractor Supply custom mounted on tube light brackets. Moving to the back and the center piece of my jeep so far is the Daystar mounting bracket with two Can Cam containers installed. One for dry storage and the other for liquids. In the tow hitch is a D-ring receiver with red Daystar anti rattle pieces. Up top and mounted with tube style clamps are four 4" LED cubes. Two facing outward on each side, two facing backwards angled outward, and one 20" LED facing straight back. Again I have 180 degrees of light output from drivers side clear aroung to passenger. So in total I have 360 degrees of lighting. In this picture and barely seen is the light switch that powers every single light on my jeep. It's the little green pad on the left of the steering wheel right beside the interior light controls. It only has 4 outputs so some of the lights are wired together. The 3 lights on bull bar are 1 button. The 2 lights on A-pillar are 2nd button. 40" LED light bar on 3rd button. And then all 5 reverse lights are on switch 4. This last picture is of my custom audio install in the trunk. This is why I relocated the spare tire. I made a custom false floor carpeted black to cover over the wheel well. Then on top of that I mounted a 1700w Mono block amp, a 160×4w at 2ohm four channel amp, a 10 farad capacitor, wiring, and distribution blocks. I was also able to keep the foam storage case on the left and the jack kit on the right in the shadows. The floor panel will slide back over top of the trunk floor and holds a 10" Alpine Type X in custom ported box. I figured out how to bypass the factory no audio output error setting. So if anyone needs help on what is needed to install a high fidelity audio system in there Renegade just ask. Ill do a post on it.
Super nice setup. I've been thinking about getting those Cam Cans. How sturdy do you think they are? What do you have in them?
Very nice job! I’ve been having trouble finding brackets to mount my 4” pods near the A pillar/hood. Could you give me a manufacturer recommendation? Or If it’s not too much to ask, I’d be willing to pay you to fab me a pair!
Persquank thank you. The daystar mounts that attach to the vehicle are very heavy duty steal plates. Super easy to install, only 3 bolts hold it on, however you do have to remove the rear trim from inside the trunk. It will take 2 people to install though (1 to hold brackets the other to tighten bolts. It's a tight fit between the taillight housings and the side of the brackets but trunk closes fine and flush. The canisters themselves are very well made as well. Everything is good quality. I have tow 3 tow straps and gloves inside the dry storage Can Cam and nothing inside the wet container yet. THE ONLY DOWNSIDE OF THIS INSTALL IS THAT YOUR FACTORY TRUNK STRUTS WILL NO LONGER SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE TRUNK HATCH UP. I havent tried replacing them with something else yet but I believe its possible to install a more heavier duty strut to compensate for the added weight.
Styx thank you. I ordered my mounts of eBay for less than $20 and the modifications only took about a half hour for both. Just a little drilling and a bit of grinding. Here's a picture of the product with the model number clear down at the bottom of the screen You can use it how it comes but I didn't like how far the light itself was out and away from the vehicle so thats why I modified it. 1st- remove the center allen head bolt that attaches upper adjustable light mount to the lower base bracket. 2nd- take apart the adjustable upper mount and remove one of the side allen bolts and nut. (I reused this to attach the light to the base) 3rd- drill out hole in the middle of base bracket big enough to fit the Allen bolt from step 2 4th- grind the head of the Allen bolt as flat and smooth as possible while still being able to fit an Allen head into it to tighten 5th- insert bolt up through bottom of base bracket, through your choice of light mount, then tighten on nut saved with Allen bolt. (Make sure to get nut under the black rubber boot on base braket) to protect paint finish 6th- install mount as originasl instructions intend I'm not very good at explaining but I hope this is clear enough to understand and get a rough idea. Light bracket sandwiches on the rear lip of the hood and I suggest getting it right where you want it before tightening down. I don't plan on ever removing mine so I wasn't to worried if it caused small imperfections in the paint. If you plan on removing these lights later on, or reselling the car without them, or don' want to possibly damage the paint I wouldn't recommend these mounts for you.
Styx I'll get some pictures of my A-pillar light mounts today and have them posted shortly after. I also installed some 1.5" spacers on my Renegade which I'll be making a post of later as well. Going to be installing some Transformers emblems and valve stem caps also. Soon to be Autobot Desert Hawk Transformer.
I hope these help you Styx. You can get pretty good idea of how I mounted them and exactly what I did to modify the brackets.
Valkyrie off road has some bolt on ditch light brackets. I should be doing the install on them tomorrow. If the lights come in like there suppose to. I will take pictures and do a little write up! There only 45 dollars and come bare metal so you do have to paint them.
BUtrlhhawk, Yes I can still use both panels of my mysky removable roof no problem. Thats one reason I mounted the roof rack so far back, compared to most people who center them over the vehicle. I didn't want to open my sunroof only to see my roof rack covering the hole. Which it does not. However it can't be avoided with the rear mysky panel. Sorry for such a late reply. Haven't been on here in months.