Lift install question

Discussion in 'Renegade Modified Tech' started by ndrwrs56, Jun 19, 2017.

  1. ndrwrs56

    ndrwrs56 Member

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    So I'm currently installing the ATP lift kit and Ive run into a bit of a bump. I'm currently installing the front spacers right now and while the driver side installed perfectly fine, I'm having the hardest time getting the passenger side strut to line up with the knuckle. The axle is at full droop but the strut with the new spacer installed appears to be too long (makes alot of contact with the axle/cv boot and joint when trying to align the bolt holes). Anybody know why this could be happening?/what I can do to correct it ? Thanks!
     
  2. MFlores757

    MFlores757 Member

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    Not sure if you figured it out by now but I had the same issue with the 0.5" smaller Daystar kit. Ended up grinding off a small portion of the bottom edge of the strut where it hits. Nothing significant. Just enough to force the strut in place. Once you get the strut lined up properly, you won't have a clearance issue with the axle. I found that, even lifted on a rack, a lot of the spacers were super tight fits. I can't imagine how hard it is using the 2" spacers. You may be able to loosen the subframe bolts a little on that side to give you what you need to line it back up.


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  3. Aestiace

    Aestiace Member

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    I had the exact same issue when I put my ATP kit on. I think I worked on that strut for over an hour...eventually I took a break and walked away, of course it slipped tongue in after that so I don't really know what changed. Just be careful around the cv boot...I pinched mine in all the frustration and I'm still waiting for the replacement boot to get in. [emoji34]

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  4. Aestiace

    Aestiace Member

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    Really glad I'm on mobile right now and it decided to change "right" to "tongue"... [emoji55]

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  5. ndrwrs56

    ndrwrs56 Member

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    Ok good at least I'm not the only one who has experienced this issue! I'm just so confused why this one is so different from the other one that went in so much easier. I've spent hours trying to get it in and Im trying to be really careful around the cv joint but don't know what else to do. I'm not sure if grinding it down would do much and I thought about dropping the sub frame a bit but that seems like a quite a bit of work and I don't want to mess up anything down there. I appreciate the comments! Please keep the suggestions coming


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  6. MFlores757

    MFlores757 Member

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    You can lower the subframe a little on that side by just loosening the two bolts. You're not taking them all the way out. No worries about messing anything up. Just back em out a few turns. They're pretty long bolts. You're not actually dropping the subframe down completely. If you want to get a feel for how much thread you have to work with, just take one all the way out and leave the other 3 tight. Won't affect a thing just sitting still. With them loose and a bit of prying, you should be able to get 0.5-.75" of room easy.


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  7. ndrwrs56

    ndrwrs56 Member

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    Ok I will try that tomorrow and hopefully it's enough I really appreciate the feedback y'all!


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  8. ndrwrs56

    ndrwrs56 Member

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    What cv boot did you get to replace it?


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  9. Aestiace

    Aestiace Member

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    I ordered it from parts.com. It was the only place I could find that would sell the boot without the entire joint assembly. I believe it is the actual Mopar part #68263498AA which they back checked against my VIN (2016 Latitude 1.4L 4x4). It is supposed to be delivered today so we will see if it's actually the correct part. Fingers crossed!
     
  10. ndrwrs56

    ndrwrs56 Member

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    Let me know how it installs! I hope it works out. I'm really not looking forward to disassembling the passenger side again after all the frustration getting everything put back together.


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  11. Aestiace

    Aestiace Member

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    I here ya there! The part arrived yesterday and it looks like it is correct, I'm going to pick up a few supplies (mostly beer) and tackle it tomorrow.
     
  12. Aestiace

    Aestiace Member

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    So the install went pretty smooth. It took me three hours start to finish, and considering this is the first time I've pulled an axle, I consider that a success! You should have most off the tools you will need since you did the lift, but there are a couple unique things that are absolutely necessary: a 36mm socket and impact wrench for the axle nut, and a cv boot band crimping tool. I also went through 2 cans of brake cleaner and a roll of shop towels, it's a very messy job... Here are some photos that may help you out. I'll be happy to answer any questions you have.

    This is the crimping tool.
    20170624_091056.jpeg
    This is the speedometer cable that you need to remove.
    20170624_074259.jpeg
    I left the bottom strut bolt in loose and then removed the three lower knuckle bolts, this definitely helped with the tightness issue that we both experienced with that strut.
    20170624_080547.jpeg
    20170624_075526.jpeg
    Rotate the axle until you find this joint in the band, then just pry it up to remove it.
    20170624_083016.jpeg
    You will need to pull the axle out, this was a bit frustrating and I ended up using a block of wood and a hammer from behind the cv joint after cutting the old boot off (this might not be the best way, but it worked...hopefully I didn't ruin anything else in the process). After that I put the axle in a vise and pulled the cv joint by carefully using a hammer to knock it off of the splines.
    20170624_084927.jpeg
    I cleaned out the joint and repacked it with cv grease. Then it's just reassembly starting with putting the boot on the axle first! I got excited that the joint was greased and started putting it back on without the boot at first... Also the small ring on the axle can be a little tricky, so keep the split facing you while you put the cv joint back on, then use a small flat screwdriver to push the ring into place while pushing the joint on.

    Good luck!




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  13. Thomas Duryea

    Thomas Duryea Active Member

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    So...why did you take the axle apart?

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  14. Aestiace

    Aestiace Member

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    I pinched the cv boot when I was installing the lift. For some reason the passenger front strut tends to be a lot tougher of an install.

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  15. ndrwrs56

    ndrwrs56 Member

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    Really appreciate the quick write up! I'll end up using this info as I replace mine


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  16. Taylor Bowman

    Taylor Bowman New Member

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    i was wondering if there is a difference between a 1.4L and 2.4L cv axle on a 2017 jeep renegade?
     
  17. zuke

    zuke Active Member

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    The axles vary based on trim and drive options (FWD vs AWD, and Auto vs Manual) But they are the same regardless of which motor.
     

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